Dateline: Steamboat (the inn is the whole town), Oregon

From many points of view, Steamboat Inn is just about perfect: a virgin wilderness location, wonderfully comfortable accommodations, enchanting hosts, cheery staff, and absolutely delicious food.

For more than seventy years, Steamboat, on the North Umpqua River of Oregon, has hosted the careful visits of sportsmen and conservationists from all over the world. Now, under the caring hands of owners Sharon and Jim Van Loan, and the culinary genius of Patricia Lee, it has evolved as an almost secret spot of apparent, unsophisticated naturalness. (We know, however, that such a remarkable degree of comfort is only produced by truly dedicated caring; this is a very special place.)

The inn consists of both riverside cabins and woods-surrounded cottages (best for families). Cedar House is off on its own. Granted it’s not in sight of the river but its fireplaced living room, king-bedded master bed, large bath with soaking tub, sleeping loft, and mini-kitchen makes it almost irresistible for long weeks of rest in the pure fresh air of the forest.

For a "Fishing Camp," the streamside cabins may surprise you. They are freshly pine-paneled with a queen and a single, a big extendable table, even a recliner. There are pretty rag rugs on the wall-to-wall carpeting, good photographs, and mine had a signed print done by a happy guest.

A shelf-full of books, excellent lighting, a guest book for that particular room, and a wet bar are the kind of extras you don’t expect in the wilderness. There’s a large closet with plenty of drawer space, a long mirror for dressing (you don’t need to), a pine-paneled bath with lots of fluffy towels, and a good stall shower. The pièce de resistance is the long, covered verandah overlooking the river with the forest primeval beyond.

In the main lodge, the never-manned, check-in desk is stacked with all the rooms' honor account books. On the other side of a giant, hand-hewn table is a fisherman's dream cache of hundreds of hand-tied flies, dozens of rods, waders, sweaters and caps. Down a couple of steps to the right are more tables for dinner and, just beyond, the tumbling river.

Here, each evening, an hour after sunset (in deference to the anglers), Steamboat's famous Fisherman's Dinner is served—a tradition of the North Umpqua for more than half a century. The long dining room table, for those who want to dine en famille, may be more than a foot thick, but it almost groans under some of the most delicious, down-home food imaginable. (Once home, Sharon and Patricia's popular cookbook Thyme and the River will help you reminisce.)

My last evening at Steamboat is typical:
Hors d’oeuvres and wine appeared just after nine.
A tureen of an absolutely wonderful, fresh greens soup was brought to the buffet and as we all milled about making new friends, a happy soul asked me,

“Did you catch anything today?”

Nope, did you?

“No, but I was fishing for Steelhead.”
(I guess it’s better not to have caught Steelhead than many a lesser breed.)

That was the extent of the fish talk.

The waitresses called us to table and we all broke into increasingly vociferous groups—everyone was really having fun. Endless carafes of northwestern wine appeared at our elbows. A tart green salad preceded the main course of a delicious, double, chicken breast. The meat had been rolled in spiced flour, slightly sautéed with fresh basil, thyme, and lemon juice, then baked until just done. Moist and tender, it was accompanied by crunchy cauliflower and lightly roasted potatoes. Dessert was walnut cake that may very well have been steeping in rum all day—divine.

While many guests come to the inn to relive Zane Grey's heroic battles for the famous steelhead, just being here will refresh your own river of life.

All the best,
Uncle Ted

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

DID YOU FIND THIS FREE ARTICLE INTERESTING AND/OR VALUABLE? If so, please donate to keep the website free and fund the addition of more articles like this. Any help is most appreciated - simply click below to securely send a contribution through a credit card and Paypal. Please note: The email address in the box below does not always seem to work. A better one to use is eglcarter@yahoo.com   Please email me your travel tales, "postcards," and questions. I'll publish the most interesting, appropriate or outrageous in Correspondence - All the best, Ted (short for Edward)

copyright © 2006, EDWARD CARTER