What a curious spot is Macau. A (once-Portuguese, now part of China) grain-of-sand-sized colony nestled almost unnoticed in the rough oyster of China that edges the South China Sea, Macau is the mecca of all gamblers and a watering hole for many idiosyncratic characters who ride the jet streams of the world. I was here more than 40 years ago for a little more serious gambling—to challenge the best of the East in the 29th Macau Grand Prix.

Numbered 27, very lucky to the Chinese, my Brabham Formula Junior, which had arrived on a very slow boat from London only a week before was the 'dark horse' favorite; the betting was especially heavy. Gambling in the casino, entouraged by my pit-groupies, was terrific fun but my winning streak didn't last. While I came in 2nd in the minor ten-lap opener, I blew my engine on the 19th of the 66-lap final.

Macao is a very cultured, un-cultured pearl some 40 miles to the west-southwest of Hong Kong. In 1963, getting there was a long, languid ferry trip interspersed with sepia-colored junks plying the sepia sea as Chinese gun boats wallowed in watch. Today one travels First Class on Boeing-powered Jet-foils which skim this now gauntlet-less velvet water in 55 minutes.

The palaces, baroque churches, exotic temples, now-quiet fortresses, and leafy winding streets that chronicle Macau's 500-year history, even to the gaud of today's hustling casinos will fascinate you. But whatever your reasons for visiting, Macau presents a unique detour to the usual Far East itinerary and has a delightful hotel that will enchant you.

Originally a fort built by the Portuguese in the early 17th-century to defend the channel between the western mouth of China's Pearl River and Macau's inner harbor, the Pousada de Sao Tiago is a quaint Portuguese Inn you'd swear had been reconstructed from the Costa Verde.

An arched stone staircase rises from the street to the chandeliered lobby where Chinese boys in white mess jackets scurry to make you comfortable.

There are twelve very comfortable suites.

One can snack by the pool on tapas, toast the sunset on the tree-shaded terrace and watch the junks slide by, then dine stylishly in the La Paloma restaurant with its delicious mix of Spanish and Macanese dishes.

Unique, delightful, and delicious.

All the best,
Uncle Ted

Hotel website

(Hand-drawn illustration by Sue Hunter)

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