Thailand
Anantara Resort Golden Triangle
By
John Bailey
Dateline: November 2, 2007; Chiang Saen, Golden Triangle, Thailand
A 13-minute read.
For most of us, the Golden Triangle, an area where the Mekong and Ruak rivers serve as borders between Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos, conjures up images of war lords, international drug cartels, and illegal logging. Nowadays, however, with significant efforts by all three neighbouring countries, particularly Thailand, to eradicate the cultivation of opium poppies and establish in its place alternative agricultural crops, and to police illegal logging of teak forests, the area on the Thai side of the border is well on the way to become a Mecca of tourism.
It was for all the area has to offer that in 2002 the Minor group bought an eleven-year-old hilltop hotel located close to the historic town of Chiang Saen in the heart of northern Thailand’s hill-tribe country where Myanmar, Laos and Thailand converge. Under the supervision of a design team comprising John Lightbody of Abacus Design for the interiors and the award-winning landscape architect Bill Bensley for the gardens, the stunningly beautiful, five-star, Anantara Resort Golden Triangle was created and opened in October 2003.
Set in 160 acres (64 hectares) of indigenous forest and landscaped gardens, the resort is positioned hugging a hill ridge with views looking down over a jungle canopy to the Mekong River and panoramic views of the three countries.
Having heard so many favourable reports from friends and colleagues about the resort, I was thrilled when Uncle Ted asked me to go. I had to go to Chiang Mai with a friend on business and the timing was perfect. We arranged a car and driver to take us on a three hour scenic drive from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai, then beyond to the gated entrance to the resort from which one ascends an 800-metre-long winding drive to the walled court-yard at top of the ridge. On all sides are cascading terraces of flowers and colourful shrubs interspersed with lawns sweeping to lakes and fountains and set against the backdrop of scented native trees. Occasionally a garden bench is to be found, enticingly situated to capture a special view and framed by a trellis of flowers.
Entrance Courtyard
After being warmly greeted by the head porter, dressed as are all the local staff (‘co-hosts’) in traditional ‘Lanna’ (northern Thailand) costume, we were ushered through an entrance courtyard flanked at each end by figurine wall paintings, and ascended a large open terra cotta staircase to an entrance hall with brass elephant poles and large rectangular pools on either side. Centered at the end of the hall is an enormous ‘sat tu pan’ traditional Buddhist screen. Measuring two metres in height and three metres in width, the screen is in typical ‘Lanna’ style with engraved ‘nagas’ (serpents) featured on it and brass candleholders along the sides.
I was so awed by the beauty of the surroundings that I failed to notice the receptionist who had got up from her desk to welcome us. She escorted us to the reception hall and after having completed our formalities, introduced us to the charming lady at the guest-relations desk who offered to assist at any time with the many choices of what to do and see.
Another lady in traditional northern-Thai attire beckoned us to follow her on a short journey through pool-adorned courtyards and scented gardens to our suite. The first thing that captures the eye upon entering is the flower-festooned, massive balcony facing the panoramic view of the Mekong valley. All 77 rooms and suites feature large balconies with in-built sofas and space for private dining. The interior designer, John Lightbody, chose locally made arts and crafts that reflect the area’s distinctive hill-tribe and Buddhist cultures—a peaceful harmony of styles. He describes the design as ‘a contemporary interpretation of classic Thai’. This is evidenced in the wall paintings, the materials on the sofas and cushions, and the wood accents. Noteworthy is that the richly finished teak wood used throughout the resort was reconditioned and that not one single branch of new teak was cut for the project.
The suite is divided by a teak cabinet containing an entertainment center of TV CD/DVD and stereo speakers that can be rotated to face the living area or bedroom.
A signature, sandy-yellow, terrazzo bathtub large enough for two people is the central feature of the bathroom, also in terrazzo, except for the large black granite vanity top containing an array of naturally scented soaps and the two extra-large wash basins. Sliding fluted-glass doors open allow the bathtub a view of the balcony and beyond, or be closed off from the bedroom. At the side of the bath are baskets of bath crystals of various natural scents, scented oil lamps, and towels folded in the shape of elephants.
The layout and design of the suites and rooms, with such attention to detail and comfort, would leave most guests with a feeling so relaxed they wouldn’t want to venture further. However, as we soon discovered by reading the very comprehensive Guest Information Booklet, there is much, much more to the Anantara Golden Triangle than just lounging round the suite and enjoying the impeccable room service that offers the option of having a barbeque on the balcony.
Fortunately, before we had begun the difficult task of deciding what activities to choose from for the next three days, Mark Heather, the general manager, telephoned and invited us for a drink.
Mark, who is in his second year at the Anantara Golden Triangle has spent seventeen years in resorts and hotels in South East Asia. His knowledge of the Golden Triangle area and its vibrant culture is most impressive and he obviously enjoys sharing it with his guests. His enthusiasm for it is pervasive and much appreciated by his Thai staff (‘co-hosts’) most of whom come from the area. He refers often to the great “Anantara Golden Triangle Experience” and waxes fondly about the many ‘delightful’ guests who have shared his enthusiasm. Mark has personally designed several of the activities on the estate and several tours outside.
Guest facilities include an infinity-edge swimming pool which is surrounded by a multi-tiered pool deck and flowered gardens and set into the hillside behind the resort to capture the views over the Mekong valley below.
For the more active, the fully equipped gymnasium (with steam, sauna and Jacuzzi) and indoor squash court and outdoor tennis court, situated down the hill, is within a leisurely walk among the splendid gardens. A word of advice for those on the treadmill or bike in the glass-walled gymnasium: try to count the number of different flowers, shrubs and trees that surround you. Before you have finished, a half hour of that usually irksome activity will have been flitted away.
The Anantara Spa features a hair and beauty salon and five treatment rooms, each with an herbal steam room and a private deck with either a muslin-draped soaking tub or Thai massage platform. A variety of therapeutic treatments are on offer and the deep tissue massage that I chose was performed most competently. The little use of the Spa made by guests during my three days at the Anantara Golden Triangle can be explained by the comment of one European guest who remarked “why come to Thailand for massages that cost more than in Badgastein, Baden Baden, and Aix-les-Bains?” The rates of Spa treatments are out of all proportion to the rates of accommodation, meals and activities at the resort. The Spa is operated by a concessionaire that would prefer to retain the existing rarified atmosphere rather than halve the rates and have the Spa become part of the Anantara Golden Triangle experience for most guests.
(Comment from Uncle Ted: On the other hand, one might say why go to Baden Baden when you can get better and much more beautiful spa facilities at the same price at a resort in Thailand whose room rates are positively one of the best bargains in the world?!)
On culinary activities, the resort has much to offer besides the extensive room service menu. Sala Mae Nam is an expansive restaurant that serves a mixture of local and regional cuisine as well as a selection of international dishes. Baan Dahlia offers authentic Italian cuisine in an intimate and contemporary setting with rustic Thai accents. I was most impressed by the table mats molded after the tops of ancient Thai drums.
The culinary experience we enjoyed most was the concept of “Dining By Design.” Guests can choose a favorite spot on the estate and a set menu of a wide choice with or without house wine will be served to them there. Locations include terraces with expansive views (our choice), a rice paddy, an area to capture the village atmosphere, and even a spot in the jungle with the baby elephants. Alternatively, at the cooking school a personal chef will cook most dishes either Thai of western in front of the guests.
Several guests with whom we spoke attended the resort’s cooking school and were full of praises for the course. The course begins with a morning excursion to the local produce market with a member of the resort’s culinary team who provides the participants with knowledgeable cultural insights into the items on display. Back at the resort guests are taught the basic techniques of traditional Lanna cuisine before sitting down to sample the ‘fruits’ of their labour. Following the Thai cooking class there is a class on the intricate art of fruit and vegetable carving which is a precious part of Thai heritage.
One of the highlights of our stay was a visit to the Elephant Camp. Set within the resort’s lush bamboo forest, the camp is home to an increasing number of elephants. The animals are cared for by their local mahouts (drivers) and English-born, resident nature-ranger, John Roberts, who is also a qualified mahout himself. On an on-going basis, Roberts works closely with the Thai government’s Elephant Conservation Centre in Lampang (located 600km north of the Thai capital Bangkok) to develop Anantara’s camp as an elephant sanctuary.
Guests are also offered the rare opportunity to learn to ‘drive’ an elephant by choosing to undertake a unique three-day mahout training course. As well as learning the mahout commands and some log-rolling skills, guests can take their pachyderm charge bathing, partake in mahout camp life, and gain a greater understanding of their three-tonne mount from Roberts. Having only a morning to spare, we had to content ourselves with driving our mounts under the close eyes of their mahouts through a jungle trail to the top of the ridge from where one gets the best views from the estate.
Roberts is also keen to re-introduce to the area indigenous wildlife and birds which may have died-out in the local eco-system or migrated elsewhere. Guests are able to take guided tours along nature trails and, for keen ornithologists, the resort's teeming forest and nearby river-banks provide plenty of bird-watching opportunities.
The only trip we had time for was the one recommended by Mark Heather—the three countries in one day tour. With our experienced and most helpful guide, we crossed the bridge from Mae Sai to Ta Khi Lek (Tachileik) in Myanmar. It was like going back thirty years in a matter of minutes. After visiting the market and a jade factory, our guide took us on a walking tour of two areas of the town, one inhabited by the local Burmese population and the other by the Shan inhabitants who were originally from Yunnan province in China. The enormous disparity in standard of living between the two groups was evidenced in the dress, houses, cleanliness of the streets, and quality of food. Before returning to Thailand, we passed by the Regina Golf Club for a drink and regretted not having the time to try out the International championship par 72 golf course with caddies in colourful, local dress. After a sumptuous lunch on a plateau on the Thai side of the border, we traveled to Chiang Saen, an ancient capital of the Lanna kingdom whose ruins are preserved and whose Wat Chedi Luang is revered. From there we took an exciting long tail boat to Don Sao Island in Laos with its numerous local markets.
Wat Chedi Luang
Opposite the gated entrance to the Anantara are the grounds of the multi-million dollar Hall of Opium. This most impressive museum of 5600 square metre exhibition and information space was a joint collaboration between the Mai Fah Luang Foundation (a project the late Princess Mother of His Majesty the King of Thailand initiated to help educate people on the history of opium to build their commitment to join the fight against illegal drugs.), and the Tourism Authority of Thailand with construction funded by the Japanese government.
We spent an absorbing three hours wandering through the museum which focuses on opium, opiates, narcotics and drug eradication measures through ‘edutainment’ displays. The first part of the exhibition details the 5000-year history of opium from its first known appearance in early Egypt, through the 19th century’s opium wars, to the 20th century’s production and trafficking in Southeast Asia. The second half shows the effects of drugs on the mind and body, describing strategies employed throughout the world to control drugs and deal with drug addiction.
Activities for my next visit to the Anantara Golden Triangle will include a trip to the Doi Tung Cottage Industry areas, the inspiration of the King’s late mother; see her modest retirement villa, the Doi Tung Arboretum, housing the Princess mother’s collection of flowering mountain trees from around the world, a visit to the northern hill tribes, some of the numerous trekking and mountain biking expeditions, a game of elephant polo, and some golf on all three golf courses in the area.
The whole atmosphere of the Anantara Golden Triangle left an indelible impression on my memory—the superbly designed gardens, open spaces and stunning views, the interiors both public and private capturing the local and regional flavour with every attention to detail, the ever attentive, obliging and congenial staff offering service of a standard commensurate with a resort several times the price, and indeed the array of unpretentious but discerning guests who were out to get the most of the “Anantara Golden Triangle Experience.” It is indeed difficult to sound credible when writing about an establishment so close to perfection.
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Uncle Ted’s Footnote: I went to the Golden Triangle for the first time in 1999. I stayed at Le Meridien Baan Boran Resort. This is what it looked like:
All I remember about the place was that the manager thought I was Andrew Harper of The Hideaway Report, and that I choked for twenty minutes on the spiciest Tom Yom Gung I’d ever had. Yes, Boran was boring.
Then, as John Bailey reported above, Minor bought it and chairman and CEO, Bill Heinecke, re-created it as the Anantara Resort Golden Triangle. Being short of time but wanting to review it for you, I asked John to go in my place. John is a man of the world, real estate investor, diplomat—he was the Australian High Commissioner to Canada, has a keen eye for details, and knows the difference between costly and expensive. Great report, John; now I want to go more than ever.
Stop Press!
Just as I was about to post this story on-line this morning, I got this from Marion Walsh, PR lady for the Anantara:
Dear Uncle Ted,
It’s a real pleasure to share with you that we have a new member in the Anantara family! Our very first baby elephant to be born in the Elephant Camp at Anantara Resort Golden Triangle!
As you may know, the Elephant Camp is made of out-of-work elephants rescued from a life of begging on the streets of large cities here in Thailand. So usually we get adults or larger babies. You can imagine our surprise when we realized that one of our rescues ‘Makam’ was pregnant!
It’s a girl!
After 22 months of tender loving care, Makam, the Elephant Camp’s 20 year old Asian elephant, delivered a female calf of jumbo proportions. The latest member of the Anantara family tips the scales at about 90 kilos!
John Roberts, Director of Elephants, commented, “This is the first ever elephant to be born in the Camp and it was a completely natural birth, without any complications. Makam’s simply the best mother we could hope for and it is a joy to watch her nurturing her new baby”.
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Anantara Resort Golden Triangle is located 60km north of Chiang Rai’s international airport. For enquiries and reservations, please call + 66 (0) 5378 4084 or + 66 (0) 2 477 0760 or email infogt@anantara.com. For more information, visit www.anantara.com.
Anantara is taken from an ancient Sanskrit word that means 'borderless water', a name chosen for this element’s association in many Asian cultures with wealth and good fortune. Inspired by local architecture and sensitive to the indigenous culture, Anantara Resorts are currently located in the seaside town of Hua Hin (220kms south of Bangkok), on Koh Samui in the Gulf of Thailand and in the Golden Triangle in the country’s north. In the world-renowned destination of the Maldives, Anantara Resort Maldives is a 30-minute boat ride from the capital Male. The newest member of the Anantara family, Anantara Resort Seminyak, will open at the end of 2007 in this most fashionable district of Bali – the Island of the Gods.
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