Safe Samet
By Edward Carter

Dateline: Koh Samet in the Gulf of Thailand, April 12, 2007
An 8–minute read.

Koh Samet (also spelled Koh Samed) is one of the last unspoiled island paradises in Thailand. Most of the island is a national preserve (400 Thai Baht [THB] entrance fee) with unpaved roads and many hiking trails cut through the undeveloped hills. Being in the Gulf of Siam, the island is safe from tsunamis, the sparkling sea is clear, the air is clean, and swaying palm trees bask in the tropical sun.

About four hours south of Bangkok by bus (or about an hour south of Pattaya), Koh Samet is seven kilometers offshore from Ban Phe in the province of Rayong. Several ferries a day run between Ban Phe and the port of Na Dan on the northeastern corner of the island, or several companies offer speedboats that can take you directly to the beach of your choice.

Long the secret of Thais living in Bangkok and Pattaya, Koh Samet’s beautiful beaches are only now beginning to be discovered by the rest of the world, and charming resorts are being developed to satisfy every budget.

The island runs 6 km north to south and is 3 kms wide at its widest point. The best known beaches (going south on the east coast) are Hat Sai Kaew, Ao Phai, Ao Vong Duan (sometimes spelled Ao Wong Duen and other similar combinations), Ao Wai, and Ao Kui Na Nok. Ao Prao is on the west coast. Many of these beaches have sand that is so fine that you need to take extra care to protect your camera, mp3, and phone.

On my most recent visit, I took the bus that leaves Bangkok’s Ekamai Bus Station. Four hours later I was at the pier at Ban Phe, grabbed a speedboat taxi...

Ted in the speedboat taxi

and twenty minutes later, waded ashore on Vong Duan Beach.

I was booked at Samet Cabana Villa. Situated at the north end of this half-moon shaped beach, Samet Cabana Villa represents excellent midrange value. The beautiful new duplexes are right on the beach and have lots of wood trim, total glass fronts, and a thatched roof. Rooms provide a TV and fridge, king or twin beds, a desk where I could sit to write this, and adequate closet and drawer space. Everything is brand new, the bathrooms are spanking clean with endless hot water, and the views across the beach and the bay are as romantic as you could ever dream. Plus each has a small deck—a great place for sundowners.

Samet Cabana
Ao Vong Duen, Koh Samet, tel: (038)644-320
A Standard double costs 1,700 THB (US$50) in the low season, 2,000 (US$60) in the high, and 3,000 (US$85) during the Christmas-New Years period.

Vong Duen is ringed with seafood restaurants and a few bars. My favorite is Cheers! Right in the middle, under the spreading boughs of the tallest tree on the beach, it is billed as the friendliest bar and restaurant on the island—“Yummy Food, Awesome Drinks, Cool Music, and Hot Staff”—all true!

Cheers! is owned and operated by Tan Sitthiphan, a very smart guy who grew up in the restaurants of Bangkok and Koh Samet, and once was a busboy at this very place. He has a gregarious personality, is a great cook, a terrific bartender, and is helped by several members of his family.

Cheers! has elegant, teak chairs and tables on the beach, a bamboo-trimmed bar with seductive seating and sexy lighting, and a brand new pool table.

In existence for only a year, Cheers! is already famous for broiled, grilled, stir-fried, or steamed seafood, and a variety of western dishes (some made famous at The Point in the Adirondack Mountains of New York...you see, I’m Tan’s partner. ;-)

Ted on the beach

While the other places along the beach empty out by 9:30 PM, Cheers! is usually full of good cheer and beautiful people who enjoy the best Mojito’s and Mai Tais in Thailand until 3 or 4 in the morning. When you go, try Cheers’ Original My Thai. (I learned the recipe from Vic Bergeron who created the first Trader Vic’s, and it’s much, much better than any of the parasol-ed, fruit-filled confections that are usually served all over the world.)

Cheers!
Vong Duan Beach, Samet Island, Thailand
Tel: 08-6145-9182
E-mail: cheers-on-the-beach@yahoo.com
http://www.cheers-restaurant-koh-samet-thailand.com

There is not a lot of nightlife on Koh Samet, that’s why lots of couples find the island so romantic. But if you have to boogie, go to Silver Sands on Ao Phai Beach.

It’s an open-air disco on the beach with a hot D.J., and sweating, muscle-boy majorettes twirling flaming batons that fill the air with the sweet smell of kerosene. Digustibus non disputandem est.

Tan Boogie-ing

Ted boogie-ing

Other places to stay and things to do…

RESORTS:

We’ve also stayed at Saikaew Beach Resort, a reasonably priced resort on Hat Sai Kaew, the largest beach on the east coast. The main beach is popular and pretty busy with masseuses, food hawkers, and tatooers...

but the new bungalows...

are around a more northern point with its own pocket beach and dining pavilion.

The bungalows are well designed and attractive, have solar-heated water, and some have unfettered views of the sea. This was the one we had...

Saikaew Beach Resort
http://www.saikaewbeachresort.com/

A short walk from Silver Sands is Samed Villa Resort, also on Ao Phai Beach. Originally built in 1987, the bungalows and restaurant have continuously been improved. On my last visit, I looked at the new ones that have just been added; they are some of very best accommodations on the island.

Samed Villa Resort
http://samedvilla.com/index.php?l=default

A nice resort on Ao Prao on the west coast is Le Vimarn Cottages that looks like a tropical hillside village with 28 units comprised of cottages and villas with a private spa. I didn’t stay there, but it looks attractive.

Le Vimarn Cottages
They don’t have their own website so go to
http://www.asiarooms.com/thailand/koh_samet_island/le_vimarn_cottages.html

At the southern tip of the island is Paradee Resort & Spa. This is a “world-class” resort (with world-class prices—from US$360 to US$2000) and is the only resort with beaches on both east and west coasts.

Paradee Resort & Spa
http://www.ekohchang.com/Koh_Samet_Island/koh-samed/paradee_resort/index.HTM

SOMETHING FUN TO DO:

A fun thing to do is hire a boat and driver from Black Marlin, right next door to Cheers!

Leaving Vong Duan Beach

For 2,000 THB (US$60) for 3 hours, the boat goes south around the tip of the island and stops in a cove for snorkeling. Black Marlin provides life jackets, masks, and snorkels, but no fins. So if you are serious about snorkeling, you should bring your own fins. After 20 minutes or so, the boat continues north (on the western, leeward side of the island) to another cove for more snorkeling. The water is very clear, there are quite a number of small fish, and the coral is interesting but not nearly as varied and colorful as in southern Thailand.

After another 20 minutes or so, the boat continues north past Ao Prao and around the northern end of the island. Then it stops at a live fishery, run by the government, and you feed the turtles, groupers, sharks, and whatever. Great fun!

Tan and the Black Marlin Boat

Then it will stop nearby at Unseen Resort. It’s a restaurant with 9 rooms in three bungalows, all on stilts out in the middle of the water, unconnected to land. A two-star hotel, it has pretty good food and service, and would be a fun place to stay with a group of friends.

Then, another 20 minutes on the boat, and its back to the beach in front of Cheers!

SUGGESTED ITINERARY:

If you want to have a wonderful visit just like mine, here’s how to get to Vong Duan Beach:

A taxi from Bangkok to the boat pier at the village of Ban Phe will cost approximately 2,000 THB (US$60) and takes about 3 hours.

Air-conditioned, luxury buses leave the Bangkok Bus Terminal at Ekamai every hour on the hour.

While there are several buses you could take to the boats that serve Koh Samet, the most direct bus, that puts you nearly opposite the pier from which the boats for Ao Vong Duan depart, is the bus that leaves from slot #23 at Ekamai bus station. The ticket office for this route is on the left as you enter the bus station. The ticket is approximately 150 THB (US$4.25) each way. The trip takes about 4 hours.

When you arrive at Ban Phe, if you don’t have much luggage, walk across the street, turn right and go to the pier that is on your left. If you have luggage, take a motorcycle- or car-taxi. Tell them you are going to Ao Vong Duan. At the pier, ask for the White Shark boat office. White Shark is the best and has speedboats that will get you to the beach in 20 minutes or so. The charge is 1,000 THB (US$28).

Highlights of Koh Samet:

Unpaved roads...


“Broadway and 42nd Street”

Here’s how we get around...

Tan refueling.

Bottom Line:

Koh Samet is very laid back so leave your jewels and shoes at home. How long it’s going to stay in its current state, no one can say...last year the residents had to march in Bangkok in protest to plans from people-in-high-places who wanted to cover the hills with condos.

So go soon. I promise you will have a rainbow of pleasures: Red sunsets, Golden tans, Yellow sunshine, Green hills, Blue skies, and Purple nights.

Sensual Samet...try it.

Uncle Ted

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copyright © 2006, EDWARD CARTER