Twenty minutes north of Chiang Mai, deeply nestled in the beautiful Mae Rim Valley and surrounded by lush landscaping, a “village” of spacious Lanna-style pavilions and grand, multi-tiered residences overlook emerald-green, terraced rice fields. This is the Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, one of the most marvelously memorable resorts in the world.

A couple of weeks ago, one of the resort’s Mercedes met my flight from Bangkok. My first visit to the resort was in 1999, this would be my third stay. New roads avoid the clogged commercial streets and the 30-minute trip to Mae Rim is more scenic and shorter than before.

I arrive at the familiar, open-sided lobby from whose vaulted ceiling hang chandeliers of glowing fabric, and am met by Andrew Harrison, the General Manager.

His warm handshake and friendly smile sets the tone—this is a place of genuine hospitality. I juggle a cold towel, a welcome drink, my passport, and the registration form. No need, a handsome gal in an elegant outfit does the brief administration as I gaze south over the farmers tending the paddies, and across to the Doi Pui mountains; I can just make out Doi Suthep, one of the region’s holiest of shrines.

Into the golf cart and off along the winding paths we hum. This visit, my Pavilion (there are 64) is on the opposite of the “village” than last time. I go up the stairs, across the polished teak floor, out the double doors to the sala, and onto my daybed. Overlooking the terraces of rice, the sala is a private, open-sided, roofed veranda with a pillow-covered day bed and a couple of colonial armchairs around a rustic table. Orchids float in glass bowls, nature’s perfumes scent the air, the peace is palpable, and…I am home!

Back inside, the bedroom is perfect—coffered ceiling with wooden-bladed fan, elegant window dressings, rich fabrics, Siamese art, chairs made from water hyacinth, exotic throw pillows on the world’s most comfortable bed, a Chinese red armoire with TV and music center, and on top, a beautiful celadon plate.

There’s a nice handwritten note from Andrew, the ice bucket’s full, there’s a plate with half a dozen different fruits, and new Internet connection instructions that get me online instantly.

The dressing room/bath room has a glass wall looking out on a small courtyard planted with orchids and tropical vines with a carved elephant head on the back wall looking back at me. (I’ve since copied the arrangement for one of the bathrooms in my house in Isaan.)

I swim in the infinity pool, say hello to a wandering, water buffalo family that have name tags around their necks—Mr. Sand, Mrs. Mud, and baby Tuck, stick my head in the popular cooking school, and succumb to a real Thai massage in the magnificent spa designed by renowned landscape and interior design genius Bill Bensley.

Maybe tomorrow I’ll play tennis or golf, have a private yoga lesson, go horseback riding or elephant trekking, or crash around on an ATV; all of this and more is available here.

Some of the best antique shops in the Chiang Mai area are just a stroll out the front gate or you can use the resort’s complementary shuttle service to and from downtown Chiang Mai that runs five times daily.

The food is as good as the surroundings.

At the open-air Terraces, next to the pool and overlooking the rice paddies, you can choose international cuisine while the romantic gaslights joust with the moon.
Alternatively, the resort’s famous restaurant Sala Mae Rim features the finest in Thai cuisine including unique, northern specialities and vegetarian dishes. You can choose between air-conditioned comfort inside and the gentle breezes outside.

Of course there is 24-hour room service, twice daily maid service, constantly filled ice bucket, air conditioning I can control, thick towels, and magnifying make-up/shaving mirrors. This is the Four Seasons after all—the benchmark of hotel groups world wide. This is also Andrew Harrison’s baby now, and he thinks a step ahead of us all. Andrew has worked with some of my favorite managers at several of my favorite resorts around the world. At breakfast one morning he regaled me with tales of his travels. Do yourself a favor and be his guest at this wonderful place. His hospitality will overwhelm you.

This whole place is gorgeous and a tribute to creator/owner Bill Heinecke, one of Asia’s most remarkable entrepreneurs. Bill’s aim was to establish a world class, five star resort in a completely rural environment ensuring careful consideration of land use. The result is not just a deluxe resort, but a deluxe resort within a working farm of rice paddy fields. It is important to understand this because I want you to appreciate what Bill has done here compared with its fake copycat, the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi, which I will review in the coming weeks.

Sustainable tourism should be everyone’s concern but it isn’t—every resort developer should follow Mr. Heinecke’s lead. The Four Seasons Chiang Mai purchases most of its handicrafts, artwork, furniture, and amenities from local artists and suppliers in the community. For example, celadon crockery made locally in Chiang Mai is used in the restaurant and for room service. All silver- and bronze-ware used is designed and hand made by Thai artists. The resort’s investment in and support of the local community is highlighted in the use of local cottons, silks, and Sa paper products. The uniforms worn by the more than 250 staff are all made locally. Finally, ninety percent of the staff comes from the Chiang Mai area and many of these are from Mae Rim.

The website says it all: “From the Thai cooking school to the acclaimed spa and flawless service, this is a signature Four Seasons experience.”

Mae Rim-Samoeng Old Road
Mae Rim, Chiang Mai, Thailand 50180

Telephone: 66 (53) 298-181
Fax: 66 (53) 298-189 Administration
Fax: 66 (53) 298-190 Guests
Email: reservations.chiangmai@fourseasons.com
Website: www.fourseasons.com/chiangmai

Pavilion room from $425
Residences from $1050
Residences with plunge pool from $1280

A Lotus pond at Four Seasons Chiang Mai
By Edward Carter

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