Chiang Mai Miscellanies—Shopping, Dining, Music, Night Life, and Fun.

(A 13-minute read)

SHOPPING:

Make the Night Bazaar your first stop. It is an Aladdin’s Cave of goodies. You will also find stalls of major Chiang Mai shops so you can decide which you want to visit in the days ahead.

My favorite area for antiques is Hang Dong. You will need a car and driver. I recommend Tong; mobile: 089-9515295

I know you want to make your own discoveries. That’s what antiquing is all about, but here are a few of my favorites to help get you started on your own treasure hunt:

De Siam
Charming Khun Anusak owns the place with his wife.

They are both under 30 and told me they have the largest collection of Thai and Chinese antiques in Thailand. I bought a 150-year old Thai wedding cabinet for less than one thousand dollars—half the price of something similar in Bangkok.

What is remarkable about it is its original finish. Many pieces like this that you might find in Bangkok or Hong Kong often have been refinished to an ounce of their lives. Khun Anusak simply polished this one with beeswax and it glows with life.

Foraging in the dark depths of his endless warehouses, I also found this 150-year-old painter’s cabinet totally lined with calligraphed paper…

(The mirror was my mother’s and was displayed in Philadelphia for the US bicentennial.)

De Siam
80 Moo 8, Hnong kaew
Hang Dong
Chiang Mai
053-441254
Email: desiam_silom@hotmail.com
www.desiam-antiques.com

My lamps came from Ratana House...

This is the "shop"--Lanna architecture at its most decorative!

My lamps started out as laquerware containers...

And ended up as lamps.

P.S. In the picture frame on the left is my mother and me (in a kilt) at The Point. On the right, are George and Elisabeth Lane. George was previously married to Miriam Rothschild. He divorced her and her millions when she took to wandering the house with a parrot on her shoulder. Elizabeth’s father was Churchill’s Attorney General, and she is on Christie’s main board of directors. Oh, there is so much to tell you...

Ratana House also makes furniture...

The chairs and tables, copies of Chinese classics, were custom made and very reasonable.

Ratana House
284 Moo 6
Chiang Mai - Hang Dong Road
053-271734
Email: ratanahouse@hotmail.com

More goodies in my home...

The pair of red, betel nut boxes came from Borisoothi Antiques; the cabinet is Chinese and I bought it at NT. Teak Design Co. Ltd.

Here’s the boss of Borisoothi. She is a great lady and advisor to many serious collectors including the founder of Bangkok University.

Here is part of her shop!

Borisoothi Antiques
15/2 Chiengmai-Sunkamphaeng Rd.
4 kms from Chiengmai-Sunkamphaeng Junction
Chiangmai, Thailand
Tel: (053) 338460-2
Email: borisoot@cm.ksc.co.th

The black cabinet with all the butterflies on it (above in my home) came from

NT. Teak Design Co. Ltd.
16 Moo 8, Takelak Road
Hang Dong, Chiang Mai
053-434232
Email: sales@teakthai.com
http://www.teakthai.com

You may have noticed my collection of phallic objects. There is a shop in Peninsula Plaza next to the Four Seasons Hotel in Bangkok that specializes in such objects only. One can find many in revered spots in temples and gardens throughout Thailand. Their idolization emerged from Hinduism. Friends tell me mine are called “Balak Kick” in Thai. I found them in the garden of Ethnic East, a terrific shop in Mae Rim, just north of Chiang Mai.

Owned and operated by Jintana Bunpatathi, it is the first shop on the left at the beginning of the driveway leading to the Four Seasons Resort.

Ethnic East
320/1 Moo 1
The Old Mae Rim Road
Chiang Mai
053-861121
Email: white_ethniceast@hotmail.com

I bought two wonderful, antique, Chinese tables from
Kalae Art & Décor
115 Moo 8
Hang Dong
Chiang Mai
053-433316
Email: kalaecm1@hotmail.com

Near The Chedi is a small shop filled with treasures (and some penises!)...
T. Tara Collection
78/1 Charoenprathet Rd
053-818191
Email: nimsatapan@yahoo.com

A five-minute walk from the Night Bazaar is Lao Jo Alley behind Warorot Market on Khuang Meru Road. Here you will find Lanna clothes, outfits and accessories.

Now, if you have any money left, let’s eat!

DINING:
Recommended Restaurants (but read carefully):

Both restaurants at the Four Seasons Resort are delicious and delightful. See the chapter on this marvelous place.

At the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi, Farang Ses has excellent French food, and, if you don’t mind the touristic ambiance, Le Grand Lanna has wonderful Thai food.

The atmosphere in the bar and restaurant of Rachamankha is tres soignée. See the chapter devoted to this unique hotel.

Near the Night Market dine at D2 and The Chedi. Read the reviews of these hotel dining rooms in previous chapters.

In the moated, old city, don’t miss The House Restaurant & Wine and Tapas Bar. The owner is Danish, and Sassicaia is in the cellar!!! (Only 4 restaurants in Manhattan stock this fabulous Italian wine that was my house wine when I lived in London at the end of the 70s.) There is a Moroccan-style cocktail lounge outside. Inside, one dines in the spacious living room of this large old Colonial house—great food, ambiance, and value. As a starter, try the goat cheese pesto tart with roasted cherry tomatoes, and follow with the 5-spice, duck breast with layered pancakes and red cabbage. They serve eight varieties of a Martini cocktail. Dinner will cost approximately Bt1050 (US$30) per person. There is no dress code (too bad). 199 Moonmuang Rd; tel: (053) 419011; email: thehouse@cm.ksc.co.th

Walking distance from U2, The Chedi, and Galare Guest House, over the bridge, on the banks of The Ping River, you will find The Riverside—very popular but with bad spare ribs and worse house wine. It is packed on weekends, has live music, and dinner will come to about Bt675 (US$20) per person. Next door is The Good View—the largest on the river, and usually full, it has local bands (some better than others), and the veal cordon bleu is good. Dinner will be approximately Bt1100 (US$30) per person. Also nearby is Dukes—an American rib joint with lousy food but the best paper napkins in Thailand.

Beyond The Riverside but still walkable, is The Gallery—great tropical ambiance on the river, charming staff, good food and drink. Try the duck. Dinner costs approximately Bt1200 per person (US$35). There is a good jazz club in an adjoining room. This is my (and Hillary Clinton’s) favorite restaurant on the river. 25-27-29 Charernras Rd., 053-248601.

Nearby is Regina Restaurant & Guesthouse. Regina is a fascinating and lovely lady with a curious shop full of antiques and...curios.

Through the shop, on the banks of The Ping, is her charming restaurant. You’ll like it. 69, 71, & 73 Charoenrat Road; tel: (053) 262882 & 303070; email: reginagarden@hotmail.com.

Also on The Ping but not walkable is La Gondola. They can’t make a Martini, and the food is only so-so, but its location on the river is lovely and there are two great guitar players. Bt1500 per person (US$43). Go twice and Stephano will give you a discount card. It’s located at the foot of Rimping Condo at Nakhonping Bridge; tel: (053) 306483.

Antique House is next to the Night Market. I’ve dined here twice and enjoyed good dinners. 71 Charoen Prethet Road, tel 053 276810.

Suan Paak is adjacent to Central airport plaza. Tel 053 904201. This is one of the most attractive restaurants in the city. Within its vast landscaped grounds and sprawling dining areas is an air-conditioned dining room—my choice. Magnificent rice crackers served with rice and pork soup is a not-to-be-missed starter.

Not experienced but rumored to be worth a journey...

Le Crystal - www.lecrystalrestaurant.com

Also Heun Pen. From the general manager of Rachamankha: “Heun Pen serves sumptuous northern-Thai food at a very reasonable price, and the atmosphere is superb. The restaurant is located 5 minutes by car from the Rachamankha. The telephone number is 053-277 103. The name of the owner is Khun Poomjai Burusapat. I understand that this restaurant was once recommended by Conde Nast Traveller.”

MUSIC:

Alternative Pop: Laan Kroud, in front of Siwalee Village, Tambon Maehia.

Blues Rock: 11PM to midnight daily – Brasserie, Charoenrat Road.

Country: 9PM to 10PM daily at CoCoon, Kan Klong Chonpratan Rd. near Chom Doi Place condominium.

Hip Hop: From 11:30PM in the basement of the Lotus Pang Suan Kaew Hotel, 99/4 Huay Kaew Rd.

Jazz: 9PM to 11PM Friday and Saturday at The Gallery (see Restaurants, above)

Variety: See The Goodview restaurant above.

NIGHT LIFE:

There are lots of bars and discos for all persuasions.

Slickest bar is in D2, see my review in a previous chapter.

Friendliest gay bar: Friendship—go out the rear entrance of D2 and walk to your right. Nui is the charming owner.

Go-Go: There is a cabaret every night at New My Way – 3/5-6 Hatsadee Sewee Rd; (053) 404361

Most popular disco is Mandalay.

OTHER THINGS TO DO:

Take a boat trip on The Ping. Boats leave the landing between The Brown Bean Coffee Corner and The Riverside five times a day from 10AM; 01-8844621.

If you visit Ethnic East (see SHOPPING, above), the first shop on the left at the beginning of the driveway leading to the Four Seasons Resort, be sure to visit the Orchid Farm just behind it.

Chiang Mai is over seven hundred years old. More than 2000 temples are registered as historical sites. The ones you shouldn’t overlook are:

Wat Phra Singa...

Wat Chiang Mun...

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep...

(Photograph by Edward Carter)

You can also go elephant trekking, rafting, and visit the hill tribes. I’ve yet to do any of them but that’s what the future is for. The Internet is full of links that can help you plan your trip.

CONCLUSION

Now that Chiang Mai has been voted the
“World’s Number One Value Destination” by Condé Nast Traveller, what of the future?

In 1986, 19,000 international visitors passed through Chiang Mai airport. By 2005, this figure had leapt to 176,000.

In Latin classes we learned how to decline verbs. Well “Tourism” isn’t a verb but this is how I decline it:
Declining ‘Tourism’ takes ‘ability:’
Contain-ability,
Refrain-ability,
Sustainability,
Plain ability...
Or tourism will self-decline.

Sustainable tourism should be everyone’s concern and every resort developer should follow Bill Heinecke’s lead:

Bill created and owns The Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai (among many other hotels, spas, and franchises). The Four Seasons purchases most of its handicrafts, artwork, furniture, and amenities from local artists and suppliers in the community. For example, celadon crockery made locally in Chiang Mai is used in the restaurants and for room service. All silver- and bronze-ware used is designed and hand made by Thai artists. The resort’s investment in and support of the local community is highlighted in the use of local cottons, silks, and Sa paper products. The uniforms worn by the more than 250 staff are all made locally. Finally, ninety percent of the staff comes from the Chiang Mai area and many of these are from the local area of Mae Rim.

But, as in most things, Bill’s an exception.

I’m worried about Chiang Mai.

In the center of town is a huge billboard, “Sheraton Chiangmai is the tallest building and the only Deluxe Class hotel in Chiangmai to offer 526 over-size rooms including 86 suites and Executive Deluxe rooms.”

Who cares? Who would go to Chiang Mai, “The Rose of the North” to stay in a high-rise commercial hotel?

There are now 1200 “5-star” rooms (they won’t all be 5-star but you can bet they will be marketed as such) under construction in Chiang Mai.

Is there a market for them?

I don’t think so. Discriminating travellers already have their favorites in Thailand, and today many are seeking other climes similar to what Thailand had to offer twenty years ago.

I’m worried about Thailand.

The rate of tourism and the policies of the Tourist Authority of Thailand are not sustainable.

It is obvious that TAT wants numbers — quantity not quality. They don’t need to worry: a railroad is under construction from China to Thailand, and Indian airlines are acquiring air buses faster than most countries in the world.

So while the quality traveller is moving on — there is too much pollution and dirt and squalor in BKK, too much hype in Chiang Mai and Phuket, and too many cheap-package tourists in Pattaya — new markets are waking up.

But even though the main Chinese tourism body and the government’s Spiritual Civilization Committee issued guidelines the first week of October to teach travelers how to behave when overseas — speak quietly, respect queues, and put litter in trash cans — most hotel GMs I know don’t want such raw tourists.

These new tourists’ habits are equally as bizarre as the Arabs who started going to London in the 70’s and building campfires in the middle of their suites in the Dorchester. If Thailand really wants to cater to the vast numbers who definitely will come, I suggest hoteliers build 2,000-room, concrete “prisons without bars” with a shopping mall in the basement, charge US$10 a night per person, and hose out the rooms the next morning!

Is this the future? Heaven forbid!

Sustainable Tourism:
I believe the sustainable tourism market is the same today as it was 130 years ago, 100 years ago, and 30 years ago. This is how I defined it 30 years ago, and ended up creating the #1 Resort Hotel in America...

The Discerning Traveler’s Criteria:
First of all, discerning travelers really only consider places that provide the highest level of quality in their class; pretentiousness is a waste of everyone's time.

These travelers expect:
• A genuinely warm welcome,
• Staff who is willing to forego the rules and “go the extra mile,”
• Instant Internet connectivity,
• Room climate they can control,
• A constantly full ice bucket,
• White terrycloth and linen towels, and more.
• In other words, why travel unless one is going to be as comfortable as at home?
• On the other hand, discerning travelers can be just as comfortable in a simple guesthouse or under canvas in Africa...as long as they know there are caring professionals near at hand who take pride in helping them to be comfortable. Everyone understands that it is the management and staff who matter most, and their attitude is more important than their aptitude.

Finally, it is vital to understand that discerning travelers are very sensitive to the difference between something that is costly (not a consideration) and something that is expensive (unjustifiably too much).

Thus The Point I created 30 years ago consistently remains at or near the top of the “Best in the World.”

***********************************************************************