Edward Carter

(A 22-minute read)

Dateline: Bangkok, September 2006
Two weeks ago, on the spur of the moment, I called The Oriental, Bangkok and booked a table for me and a friend at Lord Jim’s. This famous restaurant had had a US$ 2 million renovation recently and I wanted to see how it looked.

Named after the seafaring hero created by the novelist Joseph Conrad, Lord Jim’s reputation for seafood is almost as well-travelled as its namesake. It is renowned world wide, particularly for its sushi and sashimi dishes.

After a complete and total transformation, the newly renovated restaurant’s concept focuses not only on the freshness and vastness of the sea which is reflected in the variety of exciting seafood dishes, but also on aquatic themes which are prevalent in the sophisticated and stylish décor.

One is welcomed by a shoulder-level aquarium; discreetly draped, private rooms run along the windows. In the main restaurant, the walls are paneled in toned and textured glass, and the banquettes are upholstered in ray-skin-patterned fabric.

But the magic of the restaurant, as in the whole place, is the shimmering Chao Phraya River, The River of Kings that slips by the windows carrying dinner cruisers, rice barges, and thoughts of exotic travel to forever distant lands.

We shared a large “Ice Tower”—all matter of cold seafood goodies: oysters, prawns, mussels, crawfish—it was more than I would have ordered for a whole dinner! Of course everything was squeaky fresh and delicious.

We followed with a whole Mediterranean Sea bass baked in salt crust as big as a shoe box, and served with selected dips and sauces—perfect!

The house wine is extraordinary and the chocolate-raspberry dessert a delight.

Dinner including cocktails and wine came to Thai baht 12,647 which is about US$340.

Dress code: Smart Casual. Opening Hours: Buffet lunch: Sundays 11am-3pm, Saturdays & Public Holidays, 11:30am-3pm; Dinner: 7pm-10:30pm (last order). For reservations,
please call +66 (2) 659 9000, Ext. 7680-1. Email: orbkk-restaurants@mohg.com

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After dinner, we went down to the Bamboo Bar. It has the best sax player and the most delicious drinks in town.

It also has the coolest drink menu filled with color illustrations of exotic libations and bound with bamboo.

[A few years ago, I asked the waitress if I could keep the menu. The smile was genuine but the answer was “No.” Having had a drink or two, I asked if I could buy it. She conferred with the manager, a deal was struck (I don’t remember for how much), and I still have the menu, casually perched on an old Vuitton suitcase in my black-mirrored bar here at home in Bangkok.]

Finally calling it a night, we headed for the front door, and there, striding the lobby after almost forty years as one of the world’s most celebrated hotel general managers, was Kurt Wachtveitl…still at the helm!

I had never met him before. We exchanged cards, and I said, “My name probably doesn’t mean anything to you but I’ll email you to see if I can jog your memory.”

Here’s the story…