When I was a kid, doing the ‘Madison’ was the chic thing to do. It was sort of a sophisticated, Manhattan-style, Texas line-dance.

Now that I’m not a kid, doing the Madison (in Bangkok) is the chic thing to do. It’s a sophisticated, Manhattan-style, gourmand restaurant featuring Texan, and Australian, and Argentinean, and Black Angus, and Kobe, and more (including fish and vegetarian).

When Madison opened a few years ago, it was hailed as the top new restaurant by the major travel magazines. Then, for a while, other newcomers stole the spotlight and quite frankly, Madison lost its focus.

But now, Patrick Ghielmetti, the recently-appointed, extremely-experienced (and terribly nice), General Manager, has brought in a new restaurant manager, re-created the menu, and, with his Swiss perfection, New York style, and European charm, has not only brought Madison back into focus, but I think has made it the best restaurant of its genre in Asia.

This paragraph is for foodies: acidic, alluring, all-you-can buffet, balanced, balsamic, coy, crisp, delicious, delectable, dignified, earthy, elaborate, entrancing, extensive, fantastic, frothy, graced, grilled, mouth-watering, opulent, organic, pan-fried, roasted, sautéed, serious, served, topped, tossed, to-die-for…well, you get the point!

Most of you know that I enjoy my dinner creatively crafted and served with polish in an atmosphere conducive to good manners and intelligent chat, with glowing silver, sparkling crystal, and lighting to compliment the ladies. So it should be no surprise that I consider the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, exemplified by Madison, as this town’s oasis of urbanity — very special.

P.S. After dinner you can enjoy the mellifluous melodies of Scotty Wright in the Lobby Lounge. (See separate story in the Bangkok Diary section.)

Madison, Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, 155 Rajadamri Road, 10330, telephone: 0-2251-6127. Underground parking (wait till you see the serious and snazzy, security system); a one-minute stroll from the Rajadamri BTS.

Notes: Best to book, and while they don’t require it, I hope you’re in a jacket and tie the next time I’m there—the food and ambiance certainly deserve it. There’s a fireplace to add magic to your aperitifs, a dazzling wine cellar with some wonderful choices, and a stunning private dining room that holds 16 very elegantly. The restaurant offers a terrific prix-fixé lunch as well. Bangkok thanks you, Patrick; chapeau!

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