By Andréa R. Vaucher

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No so long ago, Bangkok was considered a one-hotel town by upscale leisure or business travelers.

That hotel was The Oriental, majestically located on the Chao Phraya River with its river view suites named after the famous authors who had stayed there.

Sure the service at The Oriental was–and still is–impeccable, but since one never stayed anywhere else, no one imagined the service could be comparable elsewhere.

Surprise. It is.

Now critics are raving about Bangkok’s only resort hotel, the Bangkok Marriott Resort and Spa, about a mile down river from The Oriental.

After a day spent zipping around one of the world’s most exotic–albeit polluted and congested–capitals, it’s a pleasure to have the option of sinking into the Marriott’s resort atmosphere with acres of shady oxygen-spouting tropical trees and flowers, a pool the likes of which you’d find at an Aman resort, and a state-of-the-art spa offering everything from manicures to 90-minute Thai massages.

The Resort’s location is ideal, except when trying to convince a tuk-tuk driver to take you there for a reasonable price from The Oriental’s Bamboo Bar after midnight. (One always has to negotiate the fare in one of Bangkok’s loud, tricycle taxis—tuk-tuks— but one can always get a regular taxi at any time of day or night.)

The Resort, like so many of the luxury properties along the river, offers shuttle-boat service to and from the Taksin Bridge Skytrain station every 15 minutes from 7AM to midnight. The trip takes twelve minutes. In fact, traveling by river is the way to go in bustling Bangkok, either jumping on and off the various hotel shuttles or hailing a long-tail boat-taxi.

The Marriott Resort has 413 guestrooms, but, if possible, book a room or suite with a river view; there’s nothing more intoxicating than sitting on the terrace and watching the fiery sun set over the river. (The only advantage of smog is that it turns the sunset into a festival of colors matched only by the rooftops of some of the city’s temples and palaces.)

If you have the good fortune to be in Bangkok during the November full moon, a terrace at the Resort is the perfect place for watching the Loi Krathong festivities. During this annual holiday, the Bangkok natives come down to the river and cast off candle-lit banana-leaf boats, in the hope of casting off their bad luck for the forthcoming year as well.

The Bangkok Marriott Resort and Spa’s spacious rooms have polished teak furniture and floors, but you’ll never hear your neighbors above. Rooms feature all the latest bells and whistles such as high-speed Internet access, fine cotton linens, marble baths, and a bedside control panel to regulate lights and room temperature.

Though the Resort is spread out over 11-plus acres and the marble lobby sprawls endlessly, it never feels too big. Even on a morning when every guest seemed to be partaking of the sumptuous buffet breakfast at the same time, the offerings were abundant and the tables continually bussed.

“I believe we really do have it all,” says Jonathan Wigley, the property’s general manager, citing the resort's seven restaurants, stylish accommodations, 2000 square meters of conference facilities, and The Mandara Spa. “Others promise, but we deliver –- a real city-resort experience.”

In a city that can give new meaning to the word chaotic, the Bangkok Marriott Resort and Spa is the perfect place to wind down and regroup after a day’s sightseeing or business. It’s the ideal spot to de-stress with a game of tennis or fifty laps, though to be stressed in Thailand, a Buddhist country with some of the loveliest people in the world, is almost an oxymoron.

Hotel Checklist:

Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa
257Charoennakorn Road
Bangkok 10600 Thailand
Tel: (66) 2476 0022
Fax: (66) 2476 1120
www.marriotthotels.com/bkkth

Hits: An oasis in the center of one of the world’s busiest cities. Impeccable service from general manager on down. The Mandara Spa featuring the tradition Thai massage. Sipping black Russians at The Elephant Bar for a flashback to colonial times.

Misses: A bit too sprawling if you’re late for a meeting across town. How many times can you be philosophical about seeing the shuttle boat pull away from the dock as you arrive?
Be Aware: Late at night, taxi drivers will sometimes balk about taking one back to the resort on the meter—it is about a 15-minute drive from downtown. Just tell them you’ll give them a good tip, which equates to a couple of dollars US.

Plugging In: Rooms have two-line telephones (with message light) for dial-up Internet access. Lots of conveniently located electrical outlets.

Clientele: Everybody from everywhere.

Rates: Prices begin at US$200 for a deluxe garden view room and go to US$450 for a deluxe river view suite. The Royal Suite is US$1400 US.

BARELY BEYOND BANGKOK
Though it’s a shame to be in Thailand and not have the opportunity to venture beyond Bangkok, here are a couple of sightseeing ideas for visitors with only a couple of days in the capital. These short trips will take you out of the city center and give you a glimpse of the marvels that await on a more extended trip to the country.

Up the river to Ayutthaya (80 km from Bangkok)
Ayutthaya, a World Heritage site, was Thailand’s capital and power center for over four hundred years until its destruction in 1767. The ruins of the many temples and palaces that were constructed as a testament to the ancient capital’s economic prosperity are haunting architectural achievements.

The best way to get to Ayutthaya is by taking an air-conditioned cruise boat up the Chao Phraya River. Nine million Thais make their homes along the river and, as the boat makes its way upstream, scenes from of everyday Thai life are quietly revealed. The gaily-colored miniature structures in every yard are spirit houses; every home, rich or poor, has one to house good spirits.

River Sun (www.riversuncruise.com) operates boat trips to Ayutthaya, but do check with your concierge for latest details. Most of the boat operators serve a Thai buffet lunch and arrange the return in an air-conditioned mini-van. (Their website is written in Thai but when you roll your mouse over the headings, you can read the english meaning at the foot of your screen.)

The Floating Market
The floating market, located 90 kilometers from Bangkok, is colorful, vibrant, noisy and filled with terrific things to buy. Getting there is half the fun: you drive past salt flats and rice paddies, then take a long-tail boat (with an outboard, inboard motor) through miles of narrow, dwelling-lined canals to the market.

The market is jammed with boats loaded with vegetables, and orchids the size of a fist. Stalls line the canals and flog everything from Gucci knock-offs to bamboo lamps and beautiful silk scarves in every color imaginable for $3 US each. It’s total sensory overload, in the best sense. Again, your concierge will happily arrange this excursion.

Editor’s Note: Andréa was often high on the masthead at Biztraveler—the e-zine of the business scene that I created during the heady days of dot.coms. I love her style (she writes well, too!), and we’ve become fast friends. Ted

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