From My Diary, November 1 – 7

Here are a few pages from my diary covering a recent one-week trip to New York City that highlight some of my favorite people and places. If this is a week, imagine what my typical month is like!

BKK (Bangkok), Saturday, November 1

Up at 4 AM, packed, taxi to airport for EVA’s1 7:15 AM to Taipei.

Sat around sending emails until boarding EVA 31 to EWR2 at 6PM.

Arrived 10:30 PM (some 17 hours later).

Checked into the Vanderbilt YMCA3 at 11:45 PM—30 hours since I got up “this” morning.

Notes:
1. EVA Airways Corp. is a private airline owned mainly by Evergreen and based in Taipei, Taiwan. The equipment is relatively young, as are the aircrews. Service is very friendly and efficient. The crews get applauded at the end of each trip. Big plus for me is their “Deluxe Economy” class that provides business class service and seating for very little more than regular “Economy.” The only minus: alcoholic beverages are limited to wine and beer (BYOB).

2. EWR=Newark

NYC, Sunday, November 2, 2003

New York Marathon is today (1) (Much warmer at 76F than most competitors are used to.)

To Betsy and Bob Jacobs’ (2) beautiful apartment on East 57th.

Off to the hospital to visit Audre (3) who just fallen and broken her hip

Dinner at La Mediterranee (4)

Notes:

1. I’m staying at the Vanderbilt YMCA in an Executive Suite (can you believe it, a private bathroom, private phone line, and a queen-size bed in a YMCA?!). Seems like the Y is the unofficial headquarters for many of the Marathon runners from Europe—French, Dutch, Italian, German, and UK accents punctuate the lobby; it’s exciting!

The Vanderbilt YMCA has been home to many of New York’s celebrities. Once known as the "Railroad Y," the Vanderbilt YMCA was established in November 1875 in the basement of the New York Rail Station to provide housing for the nation's railroad men. Each year, thousands of railroad workers traveled through New York City, requiring overnight accommodations. Soon, the five centers that made up the "Railroad Y" did not offer enough space, so in 1866, Cornelius Vanderbilt, a generous entrepreneur, gave the Railroad Branch a home of its own at 361 Madison Avenue. In 1932, with two more moves under its belt, the "Railroad Y" made its final transport to 224 East 47 Street, where it still stands today.

On 47th Street, the "Railroad Y" quickly became a neighborhood YMCA. Membership was offered to community residents and the building was christened the Vanderbilt YMCA to honor the family instrumental in the development of this facility. Descendants of Cornelius Vanderbilt were honored in May 1996 at the Vanderbilt YMCA and a bronze plaque was erected on the site to thank the Vanderbilt family.

Today, the Vanderbilt YMCA continues to be community-minded by serving its neighbors in many ways. Through respect, responsibility, caring and honesty, it offers programs that enrich the community. The extensive health and wellness facility and youth programs answer to the needs of adults, seniors, families, teens, and children.

I used to live in the penthouse which encompasses the entire roof, some 7500 square feet or over 800 square meters—my home was on ABC Television’s “Good Morning, America” as having one of the nicest penthouse gardens in the entire city!

I tented one of the terraces for a party once. Catered by Chef Daniel Boulud (New York’s most famous), it was an “Architectural Digest” event. Henry Buhl, with whom I worked in Geneva some 35 years ago, and who today is one of America’s most generous philanthropists, leaned over during dinner and told me that HE used to live in this Y! I was on the Board of the Y for several years and was very proud to be honored as Volunteer of the Year in 2001. My landlady was the amazing Betsy Jacobs, but more about her below.

2. Betsy Jacobs is one of my best friends in life.

Betsy is a wonder. She’s made a career serving the communities surrounding YMCAs across the country. When she finally approved my 12 letters of reference to rent the penthouse (yes, 12—the same as to get into the Social Register!), she welcomed me with the largest bouquet of flowers I had ever seen. Under Betsy’s direction, the Vanderbilt Y was the flagship of the organization: a blue-ribbon Board of Managers, the highest occupancy of any hotel in the city, the longest serving staff, and the happiest gym-bunnies, seniors, and children you’ve ever seen. It also was about the only Y in the city that showed a profit. Then, once again, Betsy was promoted; this time to take over several other Ys in the city. While she went from success to success, the person who was assigned to replace her by corporate headquarters floundered. Ignoring the vast manuals Betsy had written for her, her attitude and apparent disinterest turned off the Board, the employees, and the members. Inevitably, to me at least, the replacement was moved on, and Betsy moved back. I loved the Board meetings that started with an inspirational “Thought of the Day,” and I was thrilled to do anything I could to help achieve its goals (and was so proud to be voted Volunteer of the year in 2001). While being in Bangkok makes it difficult to participate directly, my spirit will always be with the Vanderbilt YMCA and whatever goal Betsy will set.

3. Audre is another of my very best friends.

Born as an adult in Syracuse, New York, she used to dress her pet duck, Cluck-Cluck. About 15 years later she moved to New York City and sold “notions” in a department store. She had the uncanny ability to look at a fabric, and find the exact matching thread at work the next day! She parlayed that skill into, among many other projects that would have been life jobs for most, designing costumes for Broadway shows, and dressing Frank Sinatra.

Then, joining Restaurant Associates, Audre worked with Joe Baum designing restaurant uniforms for most of New York’s legendary restaurants. So now, instead of dressing chickens, Audre was dressing just ducky.

Years later we discovered that we lived across the street from each other just off Fifth Avenue on 68th Street. We met through a mutual friend, Gil Karnig, who had become a permanent houseguest in my home in London (Gil had a way of doing that). Gil said Audre and her sister were visiting London and going to the Palladium that evening; I offered to have my car meet them after the show. Never having seen her photograph, I told my driver to look for an elegant gal wearing black and white (a guess). You can imagine Audre’s surprise when King motioned her over and opened the door to Miss Piggy, my very large James Young-bodied Phantom V. We’ve been fast friends ever since. This is King and Miss Piggy. (You’ll never look at a Rolls Royce quite the same again.)

Audre graduated from Restaurant Associates and started her own firm, Studio of Audre. Audre obtained materials from arcane sources all over the world, so whenever the doorman of a Helmsley Hotel, for example, needed a replacement hat, Mrs. Helmsley had to call Audre. Audre continued to make her mark with clients such as Windows of the World, The Four Seasons Restaurant, and Cunard. She liked Cunard so much, she retired to cruising around the world on their ships. A handful of years ago, she fell, damaging her inner ear, and losing her balance forever. Affectionately, I used to call her a “bitch on roller skates” (she loved the term) as she scoured the garment district for samples, and always ran her business with no help whatsoever. Unfortunately, just days before I left for this trip to New York, Audre fell in her kitchen and broke her hip. I was happy to be able to visit her. So while the roller skates have been replaced with a walker, her indomitable gumption hasn’t slowed at all...she’s exhausting her rehab crew!

4. When I lived over the Y, I dined at La Mediterranee two or three times a week. Van Johnson and Dominick Dunne were also regulars. The best thing about the experience is the piano playing of an ageless-generian Frenchman. One night, the usual, tip-filled vase had been replaced with a small American flag. All evening he played American standards instead of the usual French repertoire. Towards the end of the evening, he stood up and, with tears in his eyes, announced that he had become an American citizen that day. We all cheered…and teared. This is one of my favorite places in town and not just because they keep a jar of pimento-stuffed, giant, Spanish olives under the bar for my martinis.
La Mediterranee, 947 Second Ave. 212-755-4155. Checkered tablecloths, Mediterranean murals, and splendid bouillabaisse make this a meal to remember. Lunch, dinner daily, brunch Sat-Sun. Payment: AE, D, DC, MC, V
Cost/Price: $$$

NYC, Monday, November 3, 2003

To Marquis Galleries (1) to get a phone card for my mobile.

Meeting near Wall Street, favorite walk (2)

See Audre

Limo (3) to Macy’s, get new razor

Dinner at Shun Lee Palace (4)

Notes:

1. Whenever I need something like a battery for my camera, or a phone card, or just to see the latest electronic gadget on offer, I go to Marquis Galleries Ltd., computers, cameras, video, electronics, watches, luggage, 519 Lexington Ave, NY 10017, 212-308-6706.

2. A favorite walk in Manhattan is up Broad Street, to the Stock Exchange on Wall Street, to Trinity Church on Broadway (once the tallest building in Manhattan), up past views of where the World Trade Center (once the tallest buildings in Manhattan), past the Woolworth Building (once the tallest building in Manhattan), to City Hall Park and the Mayor’s office.


The Woolworth Building (Condos available)

3. Limos. Prior to Miss Piggy, I owned the first long-wheelbase Rolls Royce Silver Wraith. It had been built for the Indian High Commissioner to the UK. When I wasn’t using it, my chauffeur, Baxter, used to make a little money on the side by cruising for passengers up and down Piccadilly. Today, the same practice is common in NYC. In fact, I was approached by three different limo drivers this trip. For virtually the same price as a regular cab, you get a chance to stretch your legs (not quite the usual use of the phrase) and arrive in style. Watch for them.

4. Shun Lee Palace. Thirty years ago, I was introduced to Shun Lee Palace and its owner, Michael Tong, by another old friend, Bruce Bolton. Bruce was a society caterer who hobnobbed with the jet set, and who often came to The Point as a guest of our cooking school. My favorite memory is of Bruce, decked out in full dress kilt, sitting at the head of one of the round, dining room tables (wherever Bruce sat, it was the head), saying, “Ask me anything.” Dear Bruce is now in the big kitchen in the sky, and surely making the adventurer richer for everyone.

As for Shun Lee Palace, I dine there every time I visit NYC. It is one of the very few Chinese restaurants in the world without paper lanterns and fluorescent lighting. Forbes reviews it as follows:
For decades Michael Tong has been providing New Yorkers with some of the finest Szechwan/Cantonese cuisine outside of Hong Kong. In a city where most people's taste for Chinese food has been dulled by too many nights of mediocre takeout, a trip to Shun Lee Palace will remind you of its glories. While everything on the menu is excellent, the Peking duck is probably the restaurant's signature dish and must be ordered in advance. It's worth it. (Ted: Actually you don’t have to order the duck in advance, and it’s the best I’ve had anywhere.)
155 East 55th Street (Between Lexington & Third Avenues) Midtown. Phone: (212) 371-8844; Fax: (212) 752-1936. Reservations necessary

NYC, Tuesday, November 4, 2003

Blood works at Columbia Presbyterian East Side (1)

To Barneys( 2) for two pairs of shoes then to Jim’s (3)

Lunch w/Sol (4)

Visit Audre

Dinner at Grifone (5)

Notes:
1. Columbia Presbyterian. Twenty-five years ago, my country doctor in Saranac Lake, NY, discovered I had inherited my mother’s elevated blood pressure and prescribed a mild medicine. When I returned to live in London after selling The Point, I called up my old Belgravia doctor and asked him to renew the subscription. Explaining he couldn’t do that quite so simply, he made an appointment for me to see Mr. Someone on Harley Street. (Harley is to doctors as Bond is to tailors.) Don’t ask me why the top doctors are called Mr. but it turned out this Mr. was the Queen’s cardiologist. He gave me every test in the world (it’s free in the UK, so he gave me the works), said there was nothing wrong with my heart or arteries, and prescribed the same mild medicine for my elevated blood pressure.

When I later moved to Los Angeles, he recommended a buddy at Mt. Sinai, and again my doctor was the top cardiologist in the city. Same when I moved to San Francisco, and when I moved to NYC, I asked for an introduction there. The point of all this is simply to explain how I came to know, and to introduce you, to the best team of doctors in New York, all whom are part of Columbia Presbyterian Hospital and work out of an office in midtown at 16 East 60th Street.

The best cardiologist is Francis M. (Tim) Weld, MD. Tim looks after more than 4000 patients personally, and sits there in his immaculate office (probably in a pink Brooks Brothers shirt and appropriate tie) typing into his computer your every response to his gentle questions.

Across the hall is Jon LaPook. His name makes me giggle because it is he who does my colonoscopy ever three years or so—Dr. Pook takes a look. And there is every other type of physician you can imagine, all absolutely top drawer, and of whom your mother would approve.

2. Across the street from Columbia Presbyterian East Side is Barneys, one of the best men’s shops in town. More than once, coming out of Dr. La Pook’s magic sedative drug, I find I have splurged on yet another few pairs of shoes at Barney’s. Did I really need a pair of bright red, Prada loafers?

3. Living more than 9000 miles from Manhattan, I have a large walk-in closet that looks like Phileas Fogg’s personal 7-11, and you can bet there are at least four jars of the best shoe cream in the world from Jim’s Shoe Repairing, Shoe Shining, while you wait. 50 East 59th 10022 between Park and Madison, 212-355-8259.

4. Sol is a self-effacing, quiet man with a mind like a steel trap. We lunch as often as time allows and ponder the state of the world, usually agreeing with one another.

“What’s new this week?” I ask.

“Fame is opening on Broadway.” Comes the smiling reply.

FAME had been a popular a film and TV series some 20 years ago. The musical's inspiration, as its predecessors, is New York City's High School of the Performing Arts. With a new story and score written for the stage, productions have been "everywhere" (last month in Pretoria, South Africa, last week in Milan, Italy) since its premier in the USA in 1988. Finally it has arrived in the Big Apple. Sol and his partner wrote the book. The show's success hasn't changed him. He lives simply in Queens in an attractive one-bedroom apartment, is awake at 5 AM, off the gym in an hour or so, and in bed when the rest of us are ordering our second martini. Nice man.

5. Another of my favorite favorites is Grifone. It has the full cadre of staff each in appropriate uniform--something that harkens back a generation or two. On my first visit, my second Negroni had me nervously imagining that this must be the haunt of the most senior Dons in the city, but it is the friendly and gracious service provided by the long-serving staff, and the absolutely delicious food, that inspire the regular patrons to dress for the occasion. Ristorante Grifone, just west of Second Avenue on 46th Street. Tell them I sent you. 212-490-7275.

NYC, Wednesday, November 5, 2003

Visit Audre

Lunch with Marianna (1) at La Goulue

Limo in rain to dinner in Korea Town at KunJip Restaurant2

Notes:

1 I loved “Company,” Stephen Sondheim’s great musical. You know the song…”Here’s to the ladies that lunch!” Well, these days in NYC, the ladies (and a few gents) lunch at La Goulue, and my hostess with the mostess is Mariana Hoppin, the hottest PR pro in the world.

Mariana is one of my most valued treasures. A Hoppin was my father’s roommate at Yale, Mariana married his son or nephew or something; I always get it mixed up. The point is she’s family.

Mariana's MFH Marketing also represents AVIS Europe, The Hideaway Report, Zurich’s great Baur au Lac Hotel, Scotland’s greatest resort, Gleneagles, and anywhere else that meets her standards and wants to be elevated to worldwide recognition.

Mariana was the first travel pro to visit The Point and helped put it on the map. She’s a real gent if you know what I mean, and her children are equally bright, challenging achievers. Christmas family reunions in Mariana’s spacious but comfy, Park Avenue apartment are a combination of “What’s My Line,” “Beat the Clock,” and “Hells-a-Poppin.”

Toulouse-Lautrec’s La Goulue

Mariana is also a foodie’s foodie, is on two-cheek-kissing basis with every great chef in the world, and always knows which restaurant is going to break out. I hadn’t been at La Goulue for more than seven years when it was up the street and around the corner. We were strategically placed in the best table for viewing, and chuckled our way through one of the best lunches in NYC as we spied buddies around the room. I love the little scratch pads that look like matchbooks—perfect for table-hopping, number-networking. La Goulue, 746 Madison Ave. (bet. 64th & 65th Sts), 212-988-8169, open every day serving lunch, dinner, and Sunday Brunch. By the time you read this, their new restaurant, La Cicala at Lex and 64th, will have opened with a bang!

2 Having revisited most of my New York favorites, I had to become Point-man again and strike out into new territory. For the first time ever, I went to New York's Korea town. Little Korea is a thriving ethnic enclave that has mostly developed since 1980. 32nd Street is its main drag, where many of the restaurants are open 24 hours, in part to accommodate the long hours of the city's Korean greengrocers. Tonight, a new friend and I try KunJip Restaurant, open 24 hours, Korea Town, 9W 32nd St 10001, 212 216-9487. I don’t know if it’s the best on the street but we had a delicious do-it-yourself-in-a-big-hot-pot dinner.

NYC, Thursday, November 6, 2003

Dr. Weld, Stress Test (1)

Dr. Neary (2)

Lunch at P.J. Clarke’s (3)

Dins at Nam (4)

Notes:

1 Dr. Francis M. Weld. You’ve already read about Tim above. I didn’t tell you however, that his direct ancestor founded Harvard University, and his brother was Governor of Massachusetts. As I said, my mother would approve. This morning I was having a stress test--treadmill, speed and angle are increased every 3 minutes, until you drop. Then Tim looked at my heart with a sonic camera and said I did better than 6 years ago!

2 Dr. Matthew Neary is the best periodontist in NYC. He looks after me twice a year and is charming and painless. (212) 755-1144, 501 Madison Ave Fl 22, New York, NY 10022

3 P.J. Clarke’s is an institution. A funny, little, red brick, two-story building, it stands resolutely; elbowed in by soaring, glass office blocks. My father brought me here the same day he bought me my first Abercrombie and Fitch tweed jacket. It was like coming of age; I was twelve. During prep school vacations. We’d come “slumming” here in our dinner jackets after a debutant ball at the St. Regis. A generation later, I remember Jackie O had her own teeny table—she worked around the corner. The walls are brick or smoked pine, the menu’s chalked on boards, and it still has the best bacon cheeseburger, onion strings, and Bloody Mary in town for $25. 915 Third Ave, 10022, 212-317-1616.

4 I moved downtown next to the World Trade Center on Sept 1, 2001. I was in my apartment the morning of the 11th, ran out the back door when the first tower came down, and was not able to return for 3 months. When I did, new friends took me to Nam, a cute little restaurant serving variations of Vietnamese cuisine. It had been slated to open on the 11th of September, but opened in October instead. Stephen, the owner, gave everyone free desserts to build a clientele in the most awful of times. I loved it; the food was delicious, the staff cute and friendly, and the atmosphere family-like.

Before September 11th, TriBeCa (Triangle Below Canal Street) had been the fastest growing, hottest place to live. After September 11th, we called it TriBeCa-stan, and prayed that it and the rest of New York would survive; many businesses didn’t. Then, one day Nam was jammed! Had I seen New York Magazine? The place was featured! Two weeks later, The New York Times reviewed it. Two weeks after that, I found myself sitting next to Charlie Rose. The place was booked solid for days in advance but for those of us who had been regulars in those tough early days, Stephen always finds a seat. Call him at 212-267-1777 and tell him you’re a friend. You’ll love it. 110 Reade Street, just off West Broadway.

NYC, Friday, November 7, 2003

Lunch with Audre

Packed

Limo to EWR

24 hours later, back at home in Bangkok at noon on Sunday

Dinner at Zanotti (1)

Notes:

1 Zanotti… wait a minute. Wait until I do “Ted’s Bangkok.”

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