The Hotel Seiyo Ginza is an all suite, 80-room masterpiece just off the Ginza in the middle of everything. It is owned by Seiji Tsutsumi, one of the world's wealthiest men. He knows what he's doing-Caroline Hunt's Rosewood Hotels (The Mansion, The Bel Air etc.) are handling the marketing and you know how much I respect that group.

The accommodations include simple basics like perfectly shaped wooden hangers whose cross-bar is covered with velvet to keep the trousers from sliding off. The marble bathrooms (the largest in Japan) have separate walk-in showers, a very deep tub, TV, and mirrored walls, that are constantly heated so as not to fog. Each suite has a large separate dressing room with a beveled-mirrored make-up alcove. There's a TV programmed to turn on to CNN and a VCR for viewing any of the library of over 200 tapes. The air conditioning is also humidity controlled; there's a "do not disturb" button that illuminates the warning outside in the hall, and the curtains open and shut at the touch of a button.

But all this and the beautifully-co-ordinated, internationally-contemporary, absolutely top-of-the-line furnishings fade to insignificance in the face of the personal service that will knock your socks off.

A personal concierge is provided for every guest. She will greet you in your language and will be at your disposal throughout your stay by the touch of a button on your phone. Mine was Mrs. Momo Ohno who lived in New Zealand for three years to learn English, was a flight attendant for JAL, and now takes great pleasure in looking after her clients. I wondered about doing some sightseeing. I explained I didn't want a big tour and while she emphasized that this wasn't a regular service, she would see what could be done. Remember, I always travel incognito and as far as they were concerned, I was just another guest (not someone who was going to write about the place).

The next day, Mrs. Ohno introduced me to Shigeyo Mackawa who had managed to free herself for three hours, organized a car and driver, and showed me some of the nearby shrines. Typical of the caliber of the staff here, she was educated in Switzerland, cared about her responsibilities, and was proud to assist. I asked her about some new department stores that weren't on our route. By the time we returned to the hotel, I'd already forgotten I'd asked. But five minutes later, one of the many gray-suited bellmen brought me a map on which Shigeyo had marked the best walking routes to the stores I'd asked about!

The next day I was going to visit Kyoto and was a bit concerned about getting the bullet train. When I went down to get my taxi, Mrs. Ohno had already hired one, got in herself and escorted me to the station. She had even arranged for an official of the railway to meet us who, in turn, introduced the charmingly demure lass in charge of the trip attendants to me. She showed me to my reserved seat and looked after me for the rest of trip even ensuring I got the best shot of Mt. Fuji! These are but two examples of the level of service at The Seiyo. No matter what your request, the response is always a polite bow and a sincere smile, and immediate action.

In addition, there are four restaurants one of which, Kitcho, may be the best Japanese restaurant in Tokyo. Attore is a terrific Milanese restaurant, Café Intra is a stunning American-style snack bar and the French Pastorale serves serious and exquisite "nouvelle cuisine." Why not, Roger Vergé trained the executive chef, Akio Kamata.

There are only so many elements that contribute to perfection in a hotel and the Seiyo has them all. In any event, an hotel whose lobby gift shop is Harry Winston can't be all bad! But be warned, while this kind of genuine personal attention may spoil you for anywhere else, no one can afford life in Tokyo for very long.

Hotel Seiyo Ginza, 1-11-2 Ginza, Tokyo, 104-0061 Japan
Telephone: 81-3-3535-1111, Fax: 81-3-3535-1110
email: hsgmktng@tkf.att.ne.jp website: http://www.seiyo-ginza.com