Marco Polo Restaurant and Lounge

On the 38th floor (I love the elevators here) with terrific views, this is the most soignée restaurant in the place. Of course, that’s a relative term for it’s too bad some folks feel they need not dress any better than in polo shirts—the décor and food deserve more. The staff is professional (even they laugh at having to wear white gloves to serve some of the courses—“It’s supposed to impress the Americans,” one waiter told me). What didn’t impress this American was being told, superciliously, on the phone, “We’ll only hold the table for 15 minutes.” Out of the dozen or two available, only three tables were occupied the two evenings I dined there. Again, more hype than necessary.

Restaurant Suntory

I have saved the best experience until last. Just put yourself in the hands of the charming, and profession Lillian, and you will have a delightful time. Her name label says Assistant Manager, but she is the perfect maitre d’/captain/waiter combination. She selected different dinners for two of us and supervised the chef as he prepared them. The sashimi was squeaky fresh, the beef was chopstick tender, the tempura crisp, and the lobster lovely.

There’s a beautiful Japanese garden out the window, and although, as everywhere in Taipei (and Bangkok and Singapore, for that matter) the air conditioning is always set too cold, the atmosphere and delicious food will warm you up in no time.

The Bottom Line:

After my room, the best thing this place has going for it is the General Manager, Philippe Caretti. Having put the Oriental in Bangkok on the map as its Food & Beverage Manager in the ‘80s (it will never be so wonderful again), Philippe is bringing his Shangri-la-honed, unique point of view and style to the Far Eastern. While he’s only been here a short time, he’s not only dealing with the details, but instituting some dramatic changes as well. So, in spite of the niggles that only bother travelers as seasoned as I am, I’ll be back. In fact, I look forward to returning. Next time, I won’t need to be shown to my room, and I’ll send Housekeeping some flowers with a note saying, “The crazy man who likes ice and a proper turn-down at 7:00, is back!”

Far Eastern Plaza Hotel; Superior from NT$7600; Executive Deluxe plus – NT$10,700. Plus 10% service and 5% government tax.

Tel: (886-2) 2378-8888; Fax: (886-2) 2377-7777
email: tpe@shangri-la.com
http://www.shangri-la.com