Through it all, however, as you may have sensed, I felt the operation and the facilities were almost too well honed. I had the feeling one is sort of checked-in, packaged-up, driven-out, certified, bundled-up and shipped-out. I must emphasize that I doubt very much whether any other first-timer would feel that way but I seem to be burdened with a more romantic expectation level than most, which keeps me searching for the really authentically special. I found it half-an-hour later.

Steve, who had only been at MalaMala for one month, couldn't imagine that I'd prefer the simpler Kirkman's Kamp to famed MalaMala's main camp. Named after Harry of the 500 lions who had been head ranger here, Kirkman's is the restored homestead of Toulon, one of the original private properties that now make up all of MalaMala.

Kirkman's is a living monument to the early pioneers who lived at Toulon, drew their water from the Sand River, survived the heat of summer and tried to protect their cattle from the marauding lions. Built in the early '20's, it has hardly changed. Its bedrooms, with rustic Victorian touches, have simple verandahs overlooking the river, and claw-footed tubs in each bathroom. The main homestead building is totally unpretentious, cozy and welcoming. Nothing is contrived, everything is easy, and people are themselves. They better be: Old Harry looks down from his portrait over the mantle, gun in hand.

Otherwise the routine is just like the main MalaMala camp. Same coddling, same good food, equally neat and clean but, without all the gold chains and Gucci, it just seems much more the way you'd expect it. Best of all, the rangers are as friendly and competent, and with fewer Land Rovers on safari, you might see even more game. When I go back, and I will, Kirkman's Kamp is the klear khoice.

Finally, just before turning toward the airport, we stopped for a cup of coffee at Harry's, the third camp on the MalaMala reserve. I only mention it, as you will probably receive a brochure upon enquiring about MalaMala. To me it appears to be a rather down-market version of the main camp. While Kirkman's really has an authentic character all its own, Harry's fiberglass-roofed, African-design-daubed walls; small, dark bedroom units and the "rec room's" low, designer-reeded ceiling, are poor attempts at African atmosphere. The entire ambience is one of cut-rate package tours, so don't bother. That said, the gal in charge, like all Rattray staff, was charming and gave us both a good cup of coffee. We went on to Skukuza.

The airport is a thatched building charmingly in keeping with the low-veld region. It is served regularly by Comair who flies Fokkers to and from Johannesburg, where I arrived in little more than an hour. Frankly, for such an extraordinary experience, to which I had looked forward for years, it seemed almost too easy. Go while there's still plenty to see; you'll never forget it.

All the best,
Uncle Ted

Hand-drawn illustrations by Sue Hunter.

MalaMala Game Reserve, Private Bag X284, Hillcrest, Kwazulu Natal, 3650, South Africa. Tel: + 27 31 765 2900, Fax: + 27 31 765 3365.
email: reservations@malamala.com website: http://www.malamala.com

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